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Dermatology Research and Practice
Volume 2012 (2012), Article ID 495917, 9 pages
http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2012/495917
Review Article

Cleansing Formulations That Respect Skin Barrier Integrity

1Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products Companies, 199 Grandview Road, Skillman, NJ 08558, USA
2Neutrogena Corporation, 5760 West 96th Street, R&D Building, Los Angeles, CA 90045, USA

Received 25 April 2012; Accepted 25 June 2012

Academic Editor: Georgios Stamatas

Copyright © 2012 Russel M. Walters et al. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

Abstract

Surfactants in skin cleansers interact with the skin in several manners. In addition to the desired benefit of providing skin hygiene, surfactants also extract skin components during cleansing and remain in the stratum corneum (SC) after rinsing. These side effects disrupt SC structure and degrade its barrier properties. Recent applications of vibrational spectroscopy and two-photon microscopy in skin research have provided molecular-level information to facilitate our understanding of the interaction between skin and surfactant. In the arena of commercial skin cleansers, technologies have been developed to produce cleansers that both cleanse and respect skin barrier. The main approach is to minimize surfactant interaction with skin through altering its solution properties. Recently, hydrophobically modified polymers (HMPs) have been introduced to create skin compatible cleansing systems. At the presence of HMP, surfactants assemble into larger, more stable structures. These structures are less likely to penetrate the skin, thereby resulting in less aggressive cleansers and the integrity of the skin barrier is maintained. In this paper, we reviewed our recent findings on surfactant and SC interactions at molecular level and provided an overview of the HM technology for developing cleansers that respect skin barrier.