Monitoring Individual Wave Characteristics in the Inner Surf with a 2-Dimensional Laser Scanner (LiDAR)
Scatter plot of measured wave celerities: (a) individual wave celerities against the predictor from the solitary wave theory. Data circles are coloured by their concentration in every 0.05 m/s bins. The wave-period-averaged depth is used for the soliton celerity formulation, following Postacchini and Brocchini . Correlation coefficient ; (b) averaged wave celerities obtained from the cross-correlation of two 10-minute time series, plotted against water depth. Their standard deviation is plotted as red bars, using 0.025 m wide bins. The modified and original linear wave theories in shallow water are represented in red dashed lines.
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