Monitoring Individual Wave Characteristics in the Inner Surf with a 2-Dimensional Laser Scanner (LiDAR)

Figure 9

Averaged significant wave height to averaged water depth ratio plotted against : (a) ratio calculated with based on the mean extracted individual wave period ; (b) ratio calculated with based on the mean spectral wave period , inverse of the centroidal frequency. The present dataset (black dots, and its - fit shown as red line) is compared to the fit obtained in two previous studies: dashed gray lines for Sénéchal et al. [22] and gray continuous line for Raubenheimer et al. [23].

(a)

(b)